Grading a used wool suit
Grading a used wool suit means grading two pieces as a set, and the weakest piece leads. The grade weighs jacket structure and elbow shine plus trouser seat and inner-thigh wear, then checks that both halves match in colour and wear — a suit is only as good as its more-worn component.
What to check
- Jacket structure — shoulders, lapel roll, no bubbled fusing
- Elbow shine and trouser seat and inner-thigh wear
- Colour and wear match between jacket and trousers
- Lining, buttons, and moth holes across both pieces
How to grade it, step by step
- 1
Grade the jacket
Check shoulder shape, lapel roll, and the chest for bubbled fusing, plus elbow shine — the jacket flaws that lead the grade.
- 2
Grade the trousers
Inspect the seat and inner thighs for shine and thinning, the first zones a suit trouser wears through.
- 3
Match the set
Confirm jacket and trousers match in colour and wear level and check both for moth holes; the more-worn piece caps the grade.
Graded examples
| Grade | Why |
|---|---|
| 9 (NWOT) | Crisp jacket, clean seat, both pieces matching. |
| 6 (Good) | Light elbow shine, trousers sound, colours match. |
| 3 (Poor) | Bubbled jacket chest and shiny worn trouser seat. |
Every grade sits on the GradeThread 1.0–10.0 scale.
Flaws to watch on this garment
Frequently asked
- Why does the more-worn piece decide a suit's grade?
- Because a suit is sold and worn as a matched set. If the trousers are worn shiny at the seat but the jacket is pristine, the pair still can't be worn as a suit at a high level — so the set grades to its weaker half. Mismatched wear between the pieces is itself a flaw.
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