Grading a used wool coat
Grading a used wool coat separates surface pilling from real fibre loss. Wool felts and pills at friction points, so the grade weighs pilling, moth holes, and bald patches, then checks the lining and structure — a coat lives or dies on its shoulders, buttons, and a clean, intact lining.
What to check
- Pilling and felting at collar, cuffs, and sides
- Moth holes and bald patches in the wool face
- Lining tears, sweat staining, and hem separation
- Buttons present and structural shoulders holding shape
How to grade it, step by step
- 1
Read the wool surface
Check the collar, cuffs, and underarms for pilling, felting, and thin bald spots. Fibre loss and bald patches cap the grade.
- 2
Backlight for moth holes
Hold panels to the light; wool coats are prime moth targets and even small holes lower the grade sharply.
- 3
Inspect lining and structure
Check the lining for tears and sweat stains, confirm all buttons, and make sure the shoulders and collar still hold their shape.
Graded examples
| Grade | Why |
|---|---|
| 9 (NWOT) | Clean wool face, crisp shoulders, flawless lining. |
| 6 (Good) | Light cuff pilling, intact lining, all buttons present. |
| 3 (Poor) | Bald patch at one cuff, two moth holes, torn lining. |
Every grade sits on the GradeThread 1.0–10.0 scale.
Flaws to watch on this garment
Frequently asked
- Do moth holes ruin a wool coat's grade?
- They lower it significantly. Wool is a favourite of clothes moths, and holes in the visible face fabric are hard to repair invisibly. A few small holes drop a coat into the lower grades; scattered holing usually makes it a repair-or-parts piece rather than a wearable one.
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