GradeThread

Grading a used knit sweater

Grading a used knit sweater is mostly about pilling and shape. Knits stretch, snag, and felt in ways woven garments don't, so the grade weighs surface pilling, holes, and whether the ribbing and cuffs still recover — a stretched-out neckline or a moth hole caps an otherwise clean piece.

What to check

  • Pilling severity on high-friction zones — underarms, sides, cuffs
  • Snags, pulls, and moth holes in the knit surface
  • Shape retention: neckline, cuff, and hem ribbing recovery
  • Felting or shrinkage from improper washing

How to grade it, step by step

  1. 1

    Scan for pilling

    Check the underarms, sides, and cuffs where friction pills the yarn. Light, removable pilling is minor; dense matted pilling felted into the knit caps the grade.

  2. 2

    Hunt for holes

    Hold the sweater to the light and look for moth holes, snags, and pulls. A single small hole is a cosmetic hit; multiple holes signal moth damage.

  3. 3

    Test the ribbing

    Stretch and release the neckline, cuffs, and hem. Ribbing that stays stretched out lowers the grade even when the body is clean.

Graded examples

GradeWhy
9 (NWOT)Unworn, no pilling, ribbing snaps back crisply.
6 (Good)Light removable pilling at the cuffs, shape fully intact.
3 (Poor)Matted pilling plus two moth holes and a stretched neckline.

Every grade sits on the GradeThread 1.0–10.0 scale.

Flaws to watch on this garment

Frequently asked

Does pilling always lower a sweater's grade?
Only when it can't be removed. Light surface pilling that a fabric comb lifts off is a minor cosmetic note. Dense pilling that has felted into the knit is permanent wear and does lower the grade, because it changes the fabric's hand and look.

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