Grading a used flannel shirt
Grading a used flannel shirt turns on the brushed nap. The soft fuzzy surface pills and wears flat at the collar, cuffs, and elbows, so the grade leads with nap loss and pilling, then checks the buttons, elbow thinning, and whether repeated washing has faded and thinned the cotton.
What to check
- Brushed-nap loss — flattened, worn-smooth patches
- Pilling at collar, cuffs, and elbows
- Elbow and cuff thinning toward holes
- Button count and overall fade from washing
How to grade it, step by step
- 1
Check the nap
Run a hand over the surface; the brushed nap flattens first at the collar, elbows, and cuffs. Worn-smooth patches lead the grade.
- 2
Grade pilling and thinning
Look for pilling and hold the elbows to the light for thinning that's heading toward a hole.
- 3
Count buttons and fade
Confirm all buttons are present and matching and note overall fade from repeated washing.
Graded examples
| Grade | Why |
|---|---|
| 9 (NWOT) | Full lofty nap, bright plaid, all buttons. |
| 6 (Good) | Slight nap flattening at the cuffs, no holes. |
| 3 (Poor) | Nap worn smooth at the elbows and a missing button. |
Every grade sits on the GradeThread 1.0–10.0 scale.
Flaws to watch on this garment
Frequently asked
- What's the difference between pilling and nap loss on flannel?
- Pilling is loose fibre balled up on the surface; nap loss is the brushed fuzz being rubbed away entirely, leaving the flat weave exposed. Both lower a flannel's grade, but nap loss is more serious — it's permanent and changes the shirt's soft look and feel that buyers want.
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