GradeThread

Grading a used denim jacket

Grading a used denim jacket comes down to structure and honest fading. Denim is durable, so the grade usually turns on stress points — the inseams of the arms, the button placket, and the pocket corners — plus telling intentional wash and whiskering apart from wear the maker never intended.

What to check

  • Stress points: cuff plackets, pocket corners, and the button-fly/placket
  • Fading — intentional wash vs. incidental sun fading on shoulders
  • Hardware: buttons, rivets, and the main snap or button function
  • Hem and cuff fraying beyond the designed finish

How to grade it, step by step

  1. 1

    Check the structure first

    Inspect the placket, cuffs, and pocket corners for stress, thread pulls, or splits. Denim rarely pills, so structural soundness leads the grade.

  2. 2

    Read the fading honestly

    Decide whether fading and whiskering are the garment's intended wash or incidental sun fading. As-made distressing isn't penalized; sun fading is.

  3. 3

    Test the hardware

    Work every button, rivet, and snap. A seized or missing metal shank button is a functional-elements hit that caps the grade.

  4. 4

    Photograph the checklist

    Shoot the front, back, both cuffs, the placket, and any flaw close-up with a scale reference, so the grade is verifiable.

Graded examples

GradeWhy
9 (NWOT)Unworn, tags removed, crisp indigo with no wear at any stress point.
7 (Very Good)Light honest wear, minor fraying at one cuff, all hardware works.
4 (Poor)Blown-out underarm seam and a missing shank button — a repair project.

Every grade sits on the GradeThread 1.0–10.0 scale.

Flaws to watch on this garment

Frequently asked

Does distressed denim get a lower grade?
Not for the distressing itself. A denim jacket is graded against its intended, as-made state, so factory whiskering and fading aren't penalized. It loses points only for wear or damage on top of the design — a torn pocket, a blown seam, or incidental sun fading.

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