Grading a used blazer
Grading a used blazer is a tailoring inspection. The grade leads with the structure buyers can't easily fix — shoulder shape, lapel roll, and the canvas — then weighs elbow shine, lining sweat stains, and button integrity. A blazer with a clean shell but bubbled fusing or a shiny seat grades down fast.
What to check
- Structure: shoulder shape, lapel roll, and no bubbled fusing
- Elbow and seat shine from abrasion on worsted wool
- Lining condition — sweat stains, tears, vent separation
- Buttons present, matching, and functional (including cuff)
How to grade it, step by step
- 1
Assess the structure
Check that the shoulders hold shape, the lapels roll cleanly, and the chest hasn't bubbled where fused interlining has delaminated — bubbling is a major, unfixable flaw.
- 2
Look for shine
Angle the elbows and seat to the light. A shiny, worn sheen on worsted wool signals heavy wear and lowers the grade.
- 3
Check lining and buttons
Inspect the lining for sweat stains and vent tears and confirm every front and cuff button is present and matching.
Graded examples
| Grade | Why |
|---|---|
| 9 (NWOT) | Crisp structure, no shine, flawless lining and buttons. |
| 6 (Good) | Light elbow wear, clean lining, all buttons matching. |
| 3 (Poor) | Bubbled chest fusing and shiny elbows — structurally tired. |
Every grade sits on the GradeThread 1.0–10.0 scale.
Flaws to watch on this garment
Frequently asked
- What is fabric bubbling on a blazer?
- Bubbling is when the fused interlining inside the chest or lapel delaminates from the outer wool, leaving rippled, blistered patches. It usually happens after dry-cleaning or moisture and can't be pressed out. Because it's a permanent structural flaw, bubbling drops a blazer's grade sharply even when the fabric is otherwise clean.
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