The clothing flaw library
Every flaw GradeThread's condition grading detects — how to spot it, how it affects the 1.0–10.0 grade, whether it's fixable, and how to disclose it honestly in a listing.
- Pilling
- Pilling is the small balls of tangled fibers that form on a fabric's surface where it rubs against itself or other surfaces — common on knits, under the arms, and at the cuffs. It's one of the most frequent signs of wear on used clothing and a key input to the fabric-condition grade.
- Sun fading
- Sun fading is the loss of color caused by prolonged UV exposure — often uneven, showing up on shoulders, folds, or one side of a garment that hung in light. Unlike intentional acid or bleach washes, it's incidental damage the maker never designed, so it counts against the grade.
- Moth holes
- Moth holes are small, irregular holes chewed by clothes-moth larvae, most common in wool, cashmere, and other animal fibers. They're often clustered and can be tiny, so they're easy to miss — and because they're structural damage, they weigh heavily on the grade.
- Pit stains
- Pit stains are the yellow, crusty discoloration under the arms of shirts, formed when sweat reacts with antiperspirant aluminum and body oils. Over months they stiffen the fabric, resist ordinary washing, and often spread to the collar — counting against both odor-and-cleanliness and fabric-condition on the grade.
- Crocking
- Crocking is the rubbing-off of dye from one fabric onto another or onto skin, typical of raw denim, dark dyes, and cheaply finished garments. It shows as color transfer at pockets, cuffs, and collars, and because it signals unstable dye it lowers both cosmetic and fabric-condition grades.
- Seam stress
- Seam stress is the strain, slippage, or bursting of a garment's stitched joins, where threads pull open and let daylight show through the seam. It appears at shoulders, side seams, crotches, and armholes, and because it undermines how the piece holds together it weighs on structural integrity.
- Cracked graphics
- Cracked graphics are the splits, flaking, and peeling of a screen-printed or heat-pressed design, where the plastisol ink hardens and breaks along fold lines. Common on vintage tees and logo hoodies, it can be an authentic patina or a defect, and it counts under cosmetic appearance.
- Missing buttons
- Missing buttons are fasteners that have fallen off a shirt, coat, or cardigan, leaving empty thread shanks or bare holes where they belong. They interrupt closure, are easy to overlook on a spare cuff button, and count under functional elements because they affect whether the garment can be worn as designed.
- Broken zipper
- Broken zippers are fasteners that no longer function — a separated slider, missing teeth, a stuck pull, or a zip that splits open after closing. Found on jackets, jeans, and boots, they directly block how a garment is worn and are judged under functional elements on the grade.
- Fabric thinning
- Fabric thinning is the loss of material where a textile has been abraded so much that it grows sheer, weak, and close to wearing through. It appears at elbows, knees, seats, and collar folds, often before an actual hole forms, and it weighs heavily on the fabric-condition factor.
- Snags and pulls
- Snags and pulls are loops of yarn dragged out of a weave or knit by a sharp object, leaving raised threads or puckered dimples without an actual hole. Common on sweaters, tights, and silky fabrics, they read as cosmetic when few but signal fragile fabric-condition when widespread across a piece.
- Stains
- Stains are localized discolorations left by food, drink, grease, cosmetics, or bodily fluids that soak into fibers and resist casual washing. They range from a faint water ring to a set-in grease mark, appear anywhere on a garment, and count against both cleanliness and cosmetic appearance depending on size and visibility.
- Holes and tears
- Holes and tears are breaks in the fabric where fibers have been severed or ripped apart, from a small puncture to a long split along a seam or panel. Unlike thinning, the material is already open, so they are structural damage that caps the grade well below the Excellent tiers.
- Fraying
- Fraying is the unraveling of fabric edges where threads work loose and hang free, most often along hems, cuffs, collars, and unfinished seams. It can be incidental wear or an intended distressed look; when unintended it signals declining construction and weighs on both structural integrity and cosmetic appearance.
- Shrinkage
- Shrinkage is the permanent reduction in a garment's dimensions after hot washing or drying, most severe in untreated cotton, wool, and rayon. It shows as short sleeves, a cropped body, or tight fit versus the labeled size, and while not damage exactly, it misrepresents size and affects fit-driven grading.
- Stretching
- Stretching is the permanent loss of a garment's original shape, where knit collars, cuffs, waistbands, and knees bag out and no longer recover. Caused by wear, hanging, or blown-out elastic, it leaves the piece misshapen and loose, and it weighs on structural integrity and how the item reads cosmetically.
- Color bleeding
- Color bleeding is the migration of dye from one area or garment into another during washing, leaving pink-tinged whites or muddied panels. Distinct from crocking's dry rub, it happens wet and often ruins a light section permanently, so it counts against cosmetic appearance and, when severe, fabric-condition.
- Deodorant marks
- Deodorant marks are the white, waxy streaks or stiff buildup left by antiperspirant on the inside and underarms of tops. Often mistaken for staining, fresh marks brush off while long-term buildup sets into the weave, and they count under odor-and-cleanliness and, if crusted in, fabric-condition.
- Smoke odor
- Smoke odor is the stale, clinging smell of cigarette or fire smoke absorbed deep into fibers, padding, and linings. Invisible in photos but obvious on arrival, it is a leading cause of resale returns, resists a single wash, and is graded strictly under the odor-and-cleanliness factor.
- Mildew odor
- Mildew odor is the damp, musty smell of mold that grows when fabric is stored wet or humid, sometimes with grey or black speckling. It penetrates fibers and can spread to nearby garments, signals possible staining and fiber weakening, and is judged under odor-and-cleanliness with a cosmetic penalty if spotting shows.
- Rust spots
- Rust spots are orange-brown stains transferred from corroding metal — hangers, snaps, zippers, or pins — onto fabric where moisture let the iron oxide migrate. Small and easy to miss on prints, they often set permanently into fibers, so they weigh against cosmetic appearance and cleanliness on the grade.
- Ink stains
- Ink stains are dark marks from pens, markers, or laundry mishaps that soak into fibers and are among the hardest stains to remove. Usually found on shirt pockets, cuffs, and hems, they range from a faint dot to a spreading blot and count against cosmetic appearance and cleanliness.
- Bleach spots
- Bleach spots are lightened or discolored patches where chlorine, cleaning products, or acne medication stripped the dye, leaving pale orange or white marks. Unlike fading, they are sharp-edged and localized, cannot be washed back in, and count against cosmetic appearance as permanent, irreversible damage on the grade.
- Hemline damage
- Hemline damage is wear along a garment's bottom edge — dropped stitches, unraveling, dragging scuffs, or a fallen hem hanging loose. Common on long jeans, coats, and dresses that brush the ground, it reads as both a structural and cosmetic flaw and pulls the grade toward the Good and Fair tiers.
- Elastic degradation
- Elastic degradation is the breakdown of stretch fibers in waistbands, cuffs, and straps, where the elastic goes slack, crumbly, or wavy and no longer rebounds. Age, heat, and washing accelerate it, leaving the garment loose and unsupportive, and it weighs on functional elements and structural integrity.
- Wool felting
- Wool felting is the matting of animal-fiber knits into a dense, fuzzy, shrunken surface after agitation in heat and water. Irreversible, it stiffens the fabric, blurs the stitch definition, and shrinks the piece all at once, so it weighs on both fabric-condition and the garment's fit-driven grade.
- Cuff and watch wear
- Cuff and watch wear is the localized abrasion on a left or right sleeve cuff where a watch, bracelet, or desk edge rubs it thin and frays the fabric. Subtle but asymmetric, it appears on one cuff more than the other and weighs on fabric-condition and cosmetic appearance.
- Belt loop damage
- Belt loop damage is the tearing, stretching, or complete loss of the loops that hold a belt at a trouser or jean waistband. Caused by yanking a snug belt, it leaves a frayed stub or a bare waistband, interrupts intended function, and is graded under functional elements with a cosmetic note.
- Lining tears
- Lining tears are rips and separations in the inner fabric of jackets, coats, and skirts, often hidden until the garment is turned inside out. They form at armholes, vents, and pockets under stress, and while less visible than shell damage, they still weigh on structural integrity and functional wear.
- Button fading
- Button fading is the dulling, chipping, or color loss of a garment's buttons themselves — brass gone dull, painted logos worn off, or dyed buttons sun-bleached. Distinct from missing buttons, the fastener is present but tired, so it reads as a minor cosmetic flaw that nudges the grade down a notch.
- Collar wear
- Collar wear is the fraying, graying, and thinning along a shirt or jacket collar where it rubs the neck and jaw all day. Often paired with a stubborn ring of grime, it is one of the first places a dress shirt shows age and weighs on both fabric-condition and cleanliness.
- Patch loss
- Patch loss is the missing, peeling, or torn-off patches, appliqués, and woven logos that a garment originally carried, leaving glue residue, stitch holes, or a shadow outline. Common on workwear, varsity jackets, and branded caps, it changes the piece's identity and value and counts under cosmetic appearance.
Flaw grading FAQ
- What clothing flaws lower a condition grade the most?
- Structural damage — holes, tears, blown seams, moth holes, and broken hardware — weighs heaviest because it caps how usable a garment is. Fabric flaws like heavy pilling, thinning, and pronounced fading come next. Minor cosmetic marks move the grade least. Each flaw is assessed under one of the five weighted factors on the 1.0–10.0 scale.
- How should I disclose a flaw in a listing?
- Name it plainly, show a close-up photo with a scale reference, and place it where the buyer will see it. A disclosed, photographed flaw rarely causes a return; the same flaw hidden in a 'like new' listing does. A standardized condition grade captures the flaw's impact objectively.
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