Grading Vintage Linen and Linen Blends: Creasing, Color Fade, and Fabric Stiffness as Condition Markers
To grade vintage linen clothing condition for resale, separate permanent set-in creasing and stiffness (Fabric Condition and Structural Integrity concerns) from linen's natural surface wrinkle (a non-issue) and from color loss caused by sun or wash exposure (Cosmetic Appearance). A linen garment that wrinkles when you sit down is behaving normally. A linen garment that has gone stiff, brittle, or unevenly bleached is telling you something about its fiber history — and that's what determines Excellent versus Very Good versus Good.
We've had more buyer confusion over linen than almost any other fiber, and it's almost always because sellers photograph a wrinkled shirt, panic, and either over-disclose (