Defect taxonomy
A defect you cannot name is a defect you cannot price or disclose. These articles work through the vocabulary GradeThread uses for garment damage, what separates one defect from a similar-looking one, and how each type moves a condition score.
Vintage Dress Hem Stitching Failure and Unraveling: Grading Structural Seam Breakdown Before Ship
A loose stitch and a genuinely unraveling hem grade differently. Here's the pull-and-flex test that tells you which one you're listing.
Vintage Wool Felting and Shrinkage: How to Grade Fulled Fiber, Armhole Pucker, and Waistband Tightness
Felting doesn't always kill a wool sweater's grade. Here's the fiber, armhole, and waistband test that separates cosmetic shrinkage from structural failure.
Vintage Cotton Blend Fading: How to Grade Color Loss From Washout vs. UV Exposure vs. Age Yellowing
Washout, UV exposure, and age yellowing fade cotton differently and grade differently. Here's the contrast test that tells them apart before you list.
How to Grade Vintage Swimsuits and Athletic Wear: Chlorine Damage, Elastic Death, and Liner Condition
Chlorine attacks the fiber, not just the surface. Here's the test-based standard for grading swimwear and athletic wear before you list.
The Armpit Stain Standard: Grading Deodorant Marks and Sweat Oxidation on Vintage Shirts
Deodorant residue and sweat oxidation look similar but grade differently. Here's the test-based standard for calling armpit stains correctly.
How to Grade Water Stains on Vintage Suede Jackets: Salt Marks, Rings, and Permanent Discoloration
Salt marks, water rings, and general discoloration on suede all fail differently. Here's the test-based standard for grading each before you list.
Vintage Corduroy Pile Flattening and Bald Spots: The Directional-Brush Test for True Wear vs. Storage Crush
A flattened wale can bounce back with steam and a brush, or it can be gone for good. Here's the directional-brush test that tells you which.
Vintage Coat Lining Seam Separation: Grading Interior Structural Failure Before Shipping
A separated lining seam is a Structural Integrity defect, not a cosmetic one. Here's the inspection standard for grading it correctly before you ship.
Vintage Knit Snags and Pulls: When to Grade Good, Fair, and When It's Not Worth Listing
One snag doesn't sink a sweater's grade. Here's the test-based standard for grading pulled yarn on vintage knits — and when it's not worth listing at all.
The Collar and Cuff Oxidation Standard: Grading Darkening on White and Cream Vintage Shirts
A yellowed collar isn't the same defect as a stain. Here's how to grade collar and cuff oxidation on vintage white and cream shirts correctly.
The Seam Allowance Test: How to Grade Hidden Seam Stress on Vintage Dress Pants
A pressed, unbroken outer seam can hide fraying allowance and elongated stitch holes. Here's the seam allowance test that catches structural stress before you list.
Vintage Silk Charmeuse Cracking: When Fiber Brittleness Becomes a Grade Killer
Brittle silk charmeuse cracks along folds, not just fades. Here's the fold test that separates real fiber damage from normal aging before you list.
Shedding, Matting, or Loose Attachment: How to Grade Fur Trim and Feather Condition on Vintage Coats
Shedding, matting, and loose attachment fail differently on fur and feather trim. Here's the test-based standard for grading each correctly.
The Heat-Set Crease Standard: Grading Permanent Creases That Won't Press Out of Vintage Pants
A crease that won't press out isn't a styling detail — it's fiber-level damage. Here's the fold test that separates a wrinkle from a heat-set crease.
Vintage Outerwear Waterproofing Loss: How to Grade DWR Coating Breakdown Before You List
A shell that stopped beading water isn't cosmetically worn — it's functionally degraded. Here's the bead test that grades DWR breakdown correctly.
How to Grade Suit Pants Crotch Seam Wear: Tension, Stress, and Wearability Standards
A pressed, unstretched crotch seam can still be one wear from blowing out. Here's the stress-point test for grading suit pants correctly.
How to Grade Vintage Shoe Interior Condition: Lining Tears, Insole Wear, and Footbed Condition
A clean upper doesn't mean a clean grade. Here's how to inspect lining tears, insole wear, and footbed condition on vintage shoes before you list.
Vintage Elastic Band Degradation: How to Grade Waistbands, Hems, and Cuffs That Have Lost Recovery
Dead elastic caps a grade even on spotless fabric. Here's the stretch-and-recovery test that separates Good, Fair, and Poor on waistbands, hems, and cuffs.
Vintage Leather Creasing and Cracking: When Normal Break-In Becomes Structural Failure
Surface creasing sells vintage leather. Cracking at the crease line sinks it. Here's the bend test that tells you which one you're looking at.
Vintage Suit Jacket Shoulder Seam Slippage: Detecting Hidden Structural Failure Before You List
Seam slippage hides under a pressed shoulder line and shows up after shipping. Here's the pull test that catches it before you grade or list.